Saturday, September 11, 2010

A Doge's Life



We spent the morning at the Doge's Palace next to St. Mark's Basilica and soaked in some Venetian republicanism. The dukes in Venice were elected officials--and they operated a sophisticated system of democratic governance. The Palace gave me some insight into Act 1 of Othello with its Venetian Senate and trial scene.










One photo here shows a lion's head with a gaping mouth--these were slots in the palace through which people dropped paper accusing others of various crimes. The accusations would be considered and a trial might then ensue--certainly Iago would have manipulated and exploited this.

Much to Emmett's delight, the patron gods of Venice are Mars and Neptune (aka Poseidon), so statues and frescos of the water god were everywhere in the Palace, not to mention many many (!) paintings and frescos by Italian masters (Veronese, Tintoretto, etc...most of the Titians were burned in various fires).

In another room, we got to see torture devices including a chastity belt! That was a hard one to explain to the kids, but we muddled through it. Isabella had some choice comments...I'll leave them to your imagination.

Bridge of Sighs (everyone, ahhhhhhhhhhhh), check.

Afterwards, it seemed right to take a decadent gondola ride through Sestiere di San Marco and onto the Grand Canal where we saw Marco Polo's residence (everyone, Marco? Polo!)

Later we took the elevator to the top of the Campanile and looked out over the mountains on one side and the Adriatic on the other. Dinner on the Grand Canal and dessert in St. Mark's Square listening to the women's string quintet. Perfection.

Dear readers--book a trip to Venice sometime soon. It's a great city for kids (and I must say Philip and I are thoroughly enchanted). Alright, I know my family members are remembering my bad (nearly catastrophic) experience here in '73 when I sank fairly deeply into some quick mud on the shores of our campsite on the mainland near Venice. Ginny pulled me out, bless her. But I survived and here I am again!

3 comments:

  1. We posted a comment on your Cinque Terre page....Ciao, Peter & Denise

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  2. is taking a gondola ride kinda like taking a carriage ride through Central Park or is it less touristy?
    and if you ever saw the movie "Don't Look Now" you wouldn't want to spend much time in Venice, i'm just saying.

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  3. Sarah, the gondola ride was pretty tame and EOK was bored out of his mind (after being dragged behind a boat all summer with some real horsepower). But you have to do it--and our gondolier was pretty foxy (I'm attaching a photo for those interested). All I could think about was the Madonna "Like a Virgin" video....

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